Tips to Watering Orchids

Watering orchids the wrong way could be the cause of orchid death.  This process is not that complicated, but it needs a mind set and awareness than watering regular houseplants.  You need to understand how orchids grow, thrive and bloom.

Most native orchid species grow in the tropical regions of the world.   Their roots are surrounded by a membrane called velamen. This membrane is responsible for absorbing moisture from the environment and attaching or anchoring the orchid to the orchid media or any other available stable surface.

This multipurpose membrane soaks up large amounts of water quickly, adheres to rough surfaces, and promotes the exchange of minerals and salts. Dry velamen is white or silvery, and freshly watered velamen is green or mottled, depending on the species.

Most people are used to growing plants in soil, not in bark and other media that orchids grow in or on.  Because of this, beginner horticulturists have been making big modifications on how they water their plants.  Other people tend to water their plants over and over, once they notice their potting media looking dry.  When this continues, people end up over watering and even drowning the plant.

Orchid media quickly absorbs water and then dries out.  It allows oxygen to flow around the plant’s roots.  This is needed to make the roots function correctly.  When the potting media is kept wet, the roots begin to become rotten, and the plant begins to wilt.  But then, if you are not really knowledgeable on how to care for an orchid, then your instinct will tell you to water the plant once more, which makes the condition even worse.

Always water your plants in the morning, instead of at the night. Orchid plants should be absolutely dry heading into night.  Night time watering allows water to stagnate in the growing tips of phalaenopsis or the flower sheaths of cattleyas. This encourages bacterial and fungal diseases.

You can also water your plants using lukewarm water.  You should water from the top of the plant, until the water runs freely into the drainage holes or immerse the plant in water.  Let it absorb water for ten minutes.  You can also wipe out any water that has splashed on the leaves or in between.  You can use a straw, as a way of focusing the flow of air to blow out water from in between the leaves of your plant.

Check the color and general appearance of your orchid’s roots.  By learning how to appreciate the appearance if the roots of your plant, it may save you from future frustration.

The bottom line is: observe how your orchid is doing.  Learn how to read your orchid’s roots to be able to determine if you are sufficiently watering your plants.  Remember, orchids are better off being slightly under watered than overwatered.


Phal Orchid General Information and Care Tips

The Phalaenopsis or the Phal orchid comes in different sizes and colors.  You may see some that are striped, spotted, mottled, blotched or even plain white.  They come in different sizes too, depending on the parentage.  They are an excellent choice for house plants.

Orchid hybrids are created mainly to improve the color selection and morphology of the species. For example, experienced orchid growers can create hybrids with miniature flowers in a variety of colors – not just one or two colors. That is the power of cross-pollination and careful selection for hybridization.

Phal orchids are native to tropical Asian countries including the Philippines, Borneo, Java and elsewhere.  You may come across different hybrids of this kind, ranging from the Moth orchid that has a classic white color, to the jewel like miniatures with clouds of yellow and pink blooms.

Fertilizers

During the growth season, fertilize your phal orchid with a week fertilizer weekly.  Then, you can cut it back to once a month during the flowering season, and also during winter.   Some growers like to give the plant a boost of blooming fertilizer in September or October to provoke a flower spike.

Light

Phal orchids do not fare well if exposed to direct sunlight.  They usually wither when placed in a location that has a constant source of direct sunlight with no shade.  Phal orchids scorch in direct sunlight.  They are low-light orchids that thrive in an east facing window.  This kind also does well under common grow lights when positioned about a foot off the plant.  You will notice that a thriving and well grown phal orchid possesses darker green leaves on top and streaks of red or burgundy on the undersides.

Water

The phalaenopsis is a monopodial orchid that grows from a single stem. It does not have the large water-storing pseudobulbs found on sympodial orchids, although its leaves can store some water.  You will know when the orchids are not getting enough water because the roots begin turning white! While some people find white roots quite pretty, white roots are a sign that the plant needs more water.

Phal orchids require watering once every four to seven days.  They do not like dry periods, and if there is not enough water, these orchids will die.  These orchids become more dehydrated during the growing season, so ensure that you water them at least once a week.

Temperature

During active growth, Phal orchids like temperatures between 75 and 85 degrees.  The higher the temperature, the greater the plants need for humidity.  If ever you decide that you want to keep your orchid indoors, be sure that the immediate indoor temperature would not drop below sixty degrees.

Flowering

Phal orchids are one of the largest blooming orchid species.  They can produce flowers that last from two to six months before dropping.  They are known to bloom twice or thrice a year once they have reached a mature size.   After it has flowered the first time, cut the stem just above the node where the first flower bloomed. From the top node a new flower stem should emerge within 2 months. If there is no response or the flower spike turns brown, cut it off near the base of the plant where it emerged.


Choosing the Right Orchid Pots

There are different types of orchid pots available in the market today. But bear in mind that the choice of orchid pot that you use, together with the watering, fertilizing, potting medium and location will have a huge impact on the thriving of your orchids.

Why are these pots better than ordinary garden pots? Well, orchid pots have larger holes and more of them, both in the bottom and sides of the pot, to ensure better drainage. Some orchid containers may be shorter than standard garden pots, which have a larger base. This becomes useful for top heavy orchids. Other pots meet the needs of orchids with long roots because these containers are narrow and tall.

In general, if your orchids tend to dry out too often, use plastic pots rather than clay and use a fine potting mix. If you tend to be a heavy waterer, use clay pots with a coarse mix.

Basket Pots
• Basket pots allow more air circulation and they prevent the roots from rotting and discourages diseases
• The roots and soil of orchids planted in baskets dry out faster because of the air circulation of baskets.
• Because of this, you will need to take care that the orchids by watering them so they do not dry out.
• Baskets may be traditional baskets made from woven strips of fiber, or they may resemble boxes made of slats with wide spaces between each slat.
• A basket is very suitable for orchids with pendant flowers, or heavy- rooted, sprawling orchids.

Clay Pots
• They are heavier and more stable.
• Clay pots are porous and they breathe.
• The growing medium inside a clay pot dries out uniformly.
• It has one drainage hole in the bottom, although some specialist orchid pots also have drainage holes on the sides.

Plastic Pots
• These pots are non-porous which provide less ventilation for the orchid roots.
• Plastic containers are often used in the home, but the disadvantage is that the potting mix tends to retain water for longer periods than clay containers.
• Orchids like Miltonias and Moth orchids that prefer a slight dampness benefit from a plastic pot.
• A lightweight plastic pot, which may have several drainage holes, is more suitable for indoors, where it is far less likely to be blown over.
• Choose plastic pots that have thick walls and do not break easily, light in color, and does not heat up too much in strong sunlight.

Select the best orchid pots according to the orchid species you have. When taking care of plants, there are various ways to cultivate them, and one way is to select the right container – so make sure to be careful and find out which one suits your plant in order to make it thrive.


The Different Techniques of Orchid Propagation

Orchid propagation is not as easy as it seems.  It is a technique which is used to grow orchids. There are a number of different methods which can be used to propagate orchids, ranging from techniques which usually need to be performed in a laboratory environment to methods easy enough for beginning gardeners.

Here are some of the methods used to propagate orchids:

Back Bulb

Back bulb propagation is a method of producing a new plant from old previously flowered or unflowered back pseudobulbs which are usually leafless.  It may take up to three years to grown an orchid if you propagate by back bulbs alone.  Many orchid growers look for back bulbs when they divide their plants.

Keiki

A keiki is a small plant that grows on a node along the flower spike where under normal circumstances a new branch would develop.  These plants are produced by Phalaenopsis orchids.

Aerial cuttings

This method is easy to take as the plant is almost fully grown when removed from the parent plant.  Aerial cuttings are commonly used to propagate Dendrobiums.  These plants have stem like canes and usually showy racemose flowers. When Dendrobiums are placed under stressful growing conditions, they will produce small plants instead of developing flower buds.

Division

This means splitting the plant in to two or more parts each with at least one new shoot and each will produce a fully grown mostly flowering size plant that is capable of flowering the following season.  Although you may worry about damaging your orchid by splitting it, dividing a plant most often encourages it to produce new vigorous shoots with better quality than if left on its own.

Many people are hesitant to cut their plants into two or more parts, but you must know that there are reasons that make it beneficial for your plant.  Doing so will make sure that each division with have a full growing season to establish itself.

Meristem tissue culture

Meristem tissue culture is a highly skillul and scientific method of propagation.  It needs to be performed under sterile conditions and is most often used by commercial growers who have access to a laboratory.  This is often used to mass produce a specific hybrid for commercial purposes.

Seed

Growing orchids from seed is also better suited to a laboratory, since orchid seed is about the size of dust. While other seeds contain nutrients to sustain a seedling, orchid seed has none and needs special techniques to achieve successful germination and growth.   Absolute sterility is once again pertinent for the success of this process.


Orchids Repotting Steps

The primary purpose of orchids repotting is to provide fresh media, not necessarily a larger pot, but the pot size should be selected according to the size of the root mass.

Here are the steps you should follow when repotting your orchids:

Remove the orchid from the old pot.

Spread out several sheets of newspaper, because repotting can be messy.  This is also for you to make cleanup easier. Turn the plant upside down over the paper and thump the sides and bottom of the pot to dislodge it.  You can also give a firm tap to the sides and bottom.  When the roots stick to the container, use a sterilized knife to loosen the plant.

Prepare the orchid for repotting

Trim the roots by using scissors or shears that have been sterilized.  Remove any dead or damaged roots.  Dead roots are light brown colored and mushy, while healthy roots are white, firm and with light green tips.  Once the plant is free of the old pot, gently split the roots and remove as much of the old potting mixture as possible. Don’t worry if you can’t get all of the old mix off of the roots because it is better to leave it than to risk damaging the roots.

Repot the orchid

Pick a pot that will accommodate two years of new growth.  But, if you are using an old pot, wash and soak it with ten percent chlorine bleach solution for thirty minutes, then rinse.  If you are using a clay pot, then soak it in water for a few minutes.   Because orchids require good drainage, be sure to put clean stones, broken crockery or plastic foam peanuts in the bottom of the pot.

Before using the potting mix, hydrate it with boiling water, then cool and drain it. Place some of the dampened mixture loosely on top of the drainage materials.   Positon the orchid and pack more of the dampened mixture around the roots, using your thumbs to make the mixture firm.  When you are done, ensure that the top of the rhizome is levelled with the top of the bark.

Caring after orchids repotting

Place your orchid in a lightly shaded location.  Mist the plant and the surface twice daily until you see new root growth.  Once you notice that the roots have penetrated the bark, move the plant into brighter light and continue with your normal caring routine of watering and fertilizing.

Follow these steps carefully and you will be able to successfully repot your orchids!